Kettner’s, One of London’s Best Kept Secrets A fine dining experience with a Spanish flavour! Kettner’s on Romilly Street, in the heart of London's Soho, is one of capital’s oldest and grandest restaurants. It is a unique institution, with a popular menu and an award winning eclectic wine list - something for every taste. Originally a grand hotel, Kettner’s benefits from a myriad of rooms including three classic restaurants (each with their own charming old-fashioned atmosphere and distinctive styles) and a number of private dining rooms which may be booked for special occasions or business meetings. The restaurant is renowned mostly for its lively Champagne Bar and adjoining Music Room. Before my meal I visited the Champagne Bar which offers a wide selection of fine wines. Reading through their wine list, I was pleasantly surprised to see that they sold Marques de La Concordia Reserva, a wine to set any evening off to a good start. My only complaint was that the wine list only features two sparkling wines. Recently many Cavas have been turning heads in prestigious wine ceremonies like those of Decanter and the IWSC. The Marqués de Monistrol Cava Gran Reserva Rose, crafted by Antonio Olive from the acclaimed MASÍA MÁRQUES DE LA CONCORDIA: MONISTROL D’ ANOIA winery in the region of La Penedes, Cataluña, for example has won silver in the IWSC and was voted above Krug and Don Perrignon by Malcom Gluck in a recent blind tasting. Despite this minor detail, the champagne list is vast, with low mark-ups. The bar exudes warmth and comfort with its tan leather sofas, velvet cushions, polished wooden surfaces and subdued lighting. There are over one hundred different champagnes and champagne cocktails to try. I preferred to opt for a glass of Zorita Tempranillo 2003 -an intense and fruity wine, with hints of chocolate and spice which benefits from a subtle hint of oak that combines well with soft ripe tannins- whilst I sat underneath the gleaming chandeliers listening to the strains of live jazz on a grand piano filter in from the room next door. It was hard to get the impetus to move onto the restaurant. The elegant and unpretentious restaurant, opened in 1867 by Auguste Kettner, chef to Napoleon III, is one of the oldest in London, and something of an institution. The dish quality is more than decent; the wine list matches that of the Champagne bar, and the civilised atmosphere remarkable for the centre of Soho. I particularly liked the Parma Ham and Rocket overture with pine needles, parmesan, balsamic dressing, and sun-dried tomatoes. I thought that this dish complemented my red rather well. For my main course I was torn between the Mixed Grill of Fillet Steak, chicken breast, chorizo sausage and lamb cutlet, all marinated in garlic olive oil and the whole Sea Bass. Although tempted by the fish, I was thoroughly enjoying a bottle of Marqués de la Concordia Reserva. Its concentrated bouquet of ripe fruit and cedar notes, (showing complexity and extensive barrel ageing) concentrated palate, intense velvety rich balanced acidity and elegant finish was far better suited to the Mixed Grill. The ambience of the restaurant is friendly and inviting with sumptuous surroundings. My meal was exquisite and my chosen wine, Marques de la Concordia Reserva, really enhanced the dishes flavours. It is little wonder that Oscar Wilde came here to relax on the comfy sofas whilst enjoying a good tipple. Address: 29 ROMILLY STREET, SOHO, LONDON W1D 5HP Telephone: 020 7734 6112 Fax: 020 7287 6499 Bookings and Reservations: email:reservations@kettners.com Opening times: Mon-Wed 11.30am-12.00am Thu-Sat 11.30-1.00am Sun 12pm-12.00am Marques de la Concordia Reserva, £ 29.50 Zorita Tempranillo 2003, £18.75